Woman Sewing a Mola, 1990s, Artist Unknown, 12.5 x 17 inches, cotton; 3 layers (maroon, orange, black); reverse and direct appliqué, embroidery, collection of Joyce Cheney.
RCA Dog, 1970s, Artist Unknown, 13.5 x 17 inches, cotton; 3 layers (black, orange, maroon); reverse and direct appliqué, embroidery, collection of Joyce Cheney. “Perro (dog) Musica” is the famous RCA advertisement of a dog listening for its master’s voice.
Basketball (Child-Sized Panel), 1980s, Artist Unknown, 9.75 x 13 inches, cotton; 3 layers (black, orange, maroon); reverse and direct appliqué, embroidery, collection of Joyce Cheney. Basketball is very popular among Kuna men.
“How-To” Mola, 1980s, Artist Unknown, 12.75 x 17 inches, cotton; 3 layers (maroon, yellow-orange, orange); reverse appliqué, collection of Joyce Cheney. Molas are made through reverse appliqué. The seamstress stacks 1-5 layers of cloth and pencils a rough design on the top piece. She then bastes the layers together with large stitches (@ 1/2” ea.) and proceeds layer-by-layer top to bottom, cutting through one layer, folding the edges under and hemming them, then, repeating the cuts, folds and hemming on the layer below. She may vary background layers by inserting patches of cloth in specific areas. She may also fill spaces with one or more layers of direct appliqué, in which she adds specially-cut patches of cloth to the top. When appliqué is complete, she may add embroidery as well. After she has sewn the entire panel by hand, she uses a machine to assemble the blouse.
Manatees (sea cows) and Stingray, 1980s, Artist Unknown, 13 x 15.5 inches, cotton; 3 layers (orange, maroon, green); reverse and direct appliqué, embroidery, collection of Joyce Cheney.
Tree of Life #1, 1980s, Artist Unknown, 14.25 x 18 inches, cotton; 3 layers (maroon, orange, black); reverse and direct appliqué, embroidery, collection of Joyce Cheney.
Hanger “Grandmother Mola,” 1970s, Artist Unknown, 15 x 17.5 inches, cotton; 2 layers (black, white); reverse appliqué. This pattern is based on wooden tree-fork hangers tied to walls or rafters and used to hold clothes or household tools. Black and white molas were popular in the 1960s and 70s, Collection of Joyce Cheney.
Cruise Ship Trade Mola by Renelio Robles, 1998, 12.5 x 17 inches, cotton, synthetics; direct applique, embroidery, collection of Joyce Cheney. This mola is different from most traditional molas in several ways:
•it was sewn as a single panel for sale to tourists,
•colors were chosen to appeal to tourist tastes,
•it uses only direct appliqué,
•it includes solid areas,
•it was made by a gay man, and
•the subject matter is new.
“Zormay” is probably the name of a ship that cruised the islands in a previous season. The “x” marks the ship’s door which lowers into a ramp, allowing passengers to disembark. This mola, which is well-designed and well-made, is a fitting one with which to end, as it is a multifaceted example of the Kuna’s mola tradition continuing amid change.
Funeral Trade Mola, by Marvel Misselis, 1999, 12.5 x 15.5 inches, cotton; 2 layers (maroon, red); reverse and direct appliqué, embroidery, collection of Joyce Cheney. The deceased is in a hammock which is connected by a thread to a small, carved canoe. The deceased’s spirit travels on the thread to the canoe and then floats to the spirit world. Mourners sit on low wooden stools. Cocoa bean incense burns in a sianala (brown clay brazier). Plants and birds, which have spiritual powers, are nearby.
Kuna Mola: Maintaining Tradition Amid Change
February 19 – May 8, 2010
This exhibition, from the collection of Joyce Cheney, features over 60 exquisite examples ofmolas made by Kuna women in Panama in the latter part of the 20th century. Mola is the word for both the traditional decorated panels and the blouses into which they are incorporated. Mola designs evolved from Kuna body painting. By the late 19th century, Kuna women began to wear cotton chemises and painted their undergarments instead of their bodies. As imported cloth became available in the early 20th century, women began sewing the designs onto blouses. Early blouses were loose, with short close-fitting cap sleeves, while today’s styles dictate snug bodices and puffed sleeves. Pre-1920s mola panels were large, with rough designs and stitching and little embroidery. Geometric patterns and one-color designs were common then, and are now referred to as “grandmother” molas. Post-1920s mola designs are more complex and varied.
This exhibition features a range of pieces made between the 1920s and the 1990s, including mola panels, full costumes, jewelry, a spectacular , large quilt made from mola panels, and photographs of Kuna villagers in traditional costume. A wide range of imagery can be found incorporated into the mola designs, from traditional abstract motifs and local plants and animals, to images from recent history, such as cartoon characters, WWII planes over Panama or the RCA Victor dog, and today’s popular culture: cruise ships and cartoon caracters. Joyce Cheney has been a cultural worker for decades. Originally a storyteller, folk musician and community organizer, she has transitioned backstage to non-fiction writing and museum exhibit development.
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