Exhibitions Vienna. Fabled Fabrics. Ottoman Textiles in the MAK. Museum of Applied Arts/Contemporary Art (MAK), Vienna. The Curated Object

Satteldecke (Detail)

Türkei 2. Hälfte 16. Jahrhundert

Seide, Baumwolle, Leder, Wirkerei; H. 45 (138) cm, B. 99 cm

© MAK/Georg Mayer

Phelonion (Detail)

Türkei, Istanbul oder Bursa, 16. Jahrhundert

(„Kasel“ des christlich-orthodoxen Ritus)

Seide, Metallfäden, Lampas; H. 137 cm, B. 155 cm

© MAK/Georg Mayer

Festkeild

Türkei, 18. Jahrhundert

Seide, Baumwolle, Tambourstickerei; H. 136 cm, B. 197 cm

© MAK/Georg Mayer

Detail eines Festkleides

Türkei, 18. Jahrhundert

Seide, Baumwolle, Tambourstickerei; H. 136 cm, B. 197 cm

© MAK/Georg Mayer

Handtuch/Serviette (Detail) mit Trauerweiden

Türkei, 19. Jahrhundert

Leinen, Seide, Metallfäden, gleichseitige Stickerei; H. 94 cm, B. 52 cm

© MAK/Georg Mayer

Handtuch/Serviette (Detail) mit Moscheen

Türkei, 19. Jahrhundert

Baumwolle, Seide, Metallfäden, gleichseitige Stickerei; H. 91 cm, B. 48 cm

© MAK/Georg Mayer

Beutel aus Spitze

Türkei, 19. Jahrhundert

Seide, Metallfäden, Nähspitze (Bibila Spitze); H. 13 cm, B. 10 cm

© MAK/Georg Mayer

Fabled Fabrics: Ottoman Textiles in the MAK

 July 1, 2009 – February 7, 2010

The MAK has a high-quality and highly variegated collection of Ottoman textiles. A representative selection from these holdings will be on view for the first time ever in the upcoming exhibition “Fabled Fabrics”. The presentation includes artful embroidery from the 16th and 17th centuries as well as decorative scarves, or turban wraps with intricate embroidery applications, lavishly patterned silk fabrics, and an 18th century silk festive garb with subtle embroidery. Some of the fabrics for domestic, though not everyday, use— napkins, hand towels, sashes, cushion cases, draperies and blankets—are exhibited the first time here.

The textiles shown at the MAK did not always originate within the area of the former Ottoman Empire, which included, aside from Turkey, also a number of Middle-Eastern and North-African countries; some objects also come from the European parts of the Empire which the dynasty had brought under its control for shorter or longer periods in history and which included countries such as Greece, Romania, Bulgaria, Hungary, Serbia, and Armenia and almost extended—for the last time in 1683 as far north as Vienna. In the empire’s capital city, Constantinople/Istanbul, there were court workshops where carpets and embroideries were made mainly for the sultan and his entourage. The center of silk weaving was in Bursa, 90 kilometers south of the capital, while the areas around Usak, Konya, Gördes or Bergama were well known for their carpets and embroideries. Ottoman carpets, silk fabrics, and embroideries were much-sought-after foreign trade merchandise and a popular gifts, as, conversely, were Italian silks or German goldwork at the Ottoman court.

Some of the Ottoman textiles presented in the MAK exhibition come from court workshops; the major part, however, was produced by urban manufactories, which mainly employed men. The exhibition also shows embroideries made by women for domestic-use articles. Patterns used ranged from imaginative floral designs taking the form of tendrils, bouquets, or single naturalistic blossoms—such as tulips, daffodils, carnations, or cypresses—to small architectural motifs.

Wall hangings and draperies, cushions covers, tray doilies, embroidered hand towels, and napkins: embroideries were an integral part of everyday life and of a family’s set of home textiles, in particular for special occasions such as weddings, circumcision ceremonies, or funerals. Scarves and sashes of the most delicate linen or cotton fabric embroidered with silk or metal threads complemented the festive garb and accentuated the wealth and taste of their urban or rural wearers. Gifts were presented wrapped in selected pieces of textiles, and men’s or women’s dresses of precious, artfully woven silks were considered to be much-desirable gift for high-ranking dignitaries. The show “Fabled Fabrics. Ottoman Textiles in the MAK” at the MAK Textiles Study Collection congenially complements the current major MAK exhibition “Global:Lab. Art as a Message. Asia and Europe 1500–1700”, which will be on view at the MAK Exhibition Hall till September 27, 2009 and broadly addresses the subject of the exchange of art and knowledge between the Occident and Orient at the turn of the Modern Age.

For more information please visit: MAK, Vienna

Comments

[Jane]

When you say that these exquisite pieces are on view for the first time, can it possibly be that they have been mothballed for ...years...decades? How sad, if true. For those of us who can't get to Vienna, thank you.