"Quicktake: Rodarte" installation. Photo: Carmel Wilson
"Quicktake: Rodarte" installation. Photo: Carmel Wilson
"Quicktake: Rodarte" installation. Photo: Carmel Wilson
"Quicktake: Rodarte" installation. Photo: Carmel Wilson
"Quicktake: Rodarte" installation. Photo: Carmel Wilson
"Quicktake: Rodarte" installation. Photo: Carmel Wilson
Rodarte, Fall/Winter 2009 collection. Photo: Dan Lecca
Rodarte, Fall/Winter 2009 collection. Photo: Dan Lecca
Rodarte, Spring/Summer 2009 collection. Photo: Dan Lecca
“Quicktake: Rodarte”
February 11- March 14, 2010
“Quicktake: Rodarte” at the Cooper-Hewitt Museum of National Design celebrates the Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter 2009 standout pieces from founders Kate and Laura Mulleavy. The theme of the installation is “Destruction,” and the sisters did not disappoint. The Cooper-Hewitt Museum is structurally beautiful in and of itself, with polished banisters, carpeted staircases and intricately carved moldings, the portrait of 19th century domestic grandeur. Each article of clothing, relative to one another, their decaying environments, interposed with the design of the Cooper-Hewitt itself, left a striking impression; the romance of the past was beautifully interposed with elements of both utopian fantasies for, and dystopian dismay of, the future.
The installation featured three sections, each inspired by an essence of “destruction” and a facet of the Rodarte aesthetic. Distinctive color palates, silhouettes and fabrics supported a cohesive vision, or storyline, among each vignette. One was so completely developed and so naturally relative to the other two, that a glance at the whole conveyed a real sense of the sister’s successes thus far; the installation was a living, breathing “Best of” Rodarte 2009 biographic. The pieces are at once beautiful, rude, fantastical and sophisticated; they are equally familiar and foreign in construct.
The most striking section was the last, accessed only by passing the other two, and bending ones steps beneath an ornately carved archway, supported this afternoon by two charred black walls and a heavy wooden balcony, precipitously peering downwards, to the richly carpeted staircase below. This scarred visage perfectly augmented the clothing; lending further sheen to plumed epaulettes, textured fabrics and charcoal silks. The clothing was wrapped around slender mannequins, donated by Pucci, achieving ethereal silhouettes of composed chaos. Metallic and black leather, textured stilettos littered the broken floor below, some standing and some fallen amidst the various debris one may cross in a condemned building rather than the polished mahogany halls of the Cooper-Hewitt.
The other two installations were decidedly softer in tone; clothing was arranged in front of what appeared to be chipped and broken plaster—off-white, faded lavender and icy pastels. These designs were more “futuristic” than their smoldering counterparts, but nonetheless in similarly perfect contrast to their environment. Short hemlines, angular silhouettes and metallic colors peeked from beneath alternately frayed and densely layered fabrics. The pieces both bled into and asserted themselves from, the background. A pair of lavender boots, skeletal in appearance, lay in a dusty heap on the floor.
The fashion world has come to intimately know the story of the Mulleavy sisters and their unconventional rise to Fashion Fame. Founded in Berkley, CA in 2005, Rodarte was the vision of two young girls with undergraduate degrees in 19th and 20th century Art History (Kate) and Literature and the Modern Novel (Laura). The first Rodarte collection was comprised of 10 hand-finished pieces. Today, Rodarte has established itself among the forerunners of fashion. The design team was awarded the 2009 Womenswear Designer of the Year by the Council of the Fashion Designers of America, was a 2009 fashion design finalist for Cooper-Hewitt’s National Design Awards, and enjoys a permanent position in the Costume Exhibitions at both the MOMA and F.I.T.
It would seem that the Mulleavy’s are positioning themselves in the concentric spheres of art and fashion. Of course, as Rome, Rodarte is not to be built in a day, a season, or a single, newsworthy piece. Every step made has suggested the controlled ambition of two young women seeking to build an empire. However we define Rodarte in years and collections to come, the almost immaculate advent of the brand, and the immediate embrace of the fashion community, would suggest that the Mulleavy sisters are riding high in the present. I, for one, look forward to their future. -- Natalie Fasano
For more information please visit: The Cooper-Hewitt









